Today we are aiming for Llangollen. It's not far, maybe 10 miles, no locks, but I am learning that even in the slow world of narrowboating everything takes longer than you expect. We have two tunnels, and we are traveling against the current. I also have a fear that all the moorings will be taken by the time we arrive
So it's an early start today. I should put early in context here, because it's not very early at all really, and say that we were cruising by 9am.
It's not far to the Chirk Aqueduct, with the dark entrance of the Chirk tunnel just beyond
We pull in to check that the tunnel is clear. There is a boat in the tunnel. Vera says that she can see a light on the boat, but it's not a white light so should mean the boat is traveling away from us. We give it a couple of minutes. The other boat doesn't appear to be any closer, or indeed any further away. We decide to go for it
It is a long dark tunnel. There is a strong flow of water against us, and even with high revs from the engine our progress is pitifully slow.
After what seems like forever, but probably 15 minutes, we emerge into the overworld again. The canal now travels in a deep cutting, lined with mature trees. Full of wood anenomy, bluebells and garlic. Vera has another go a steering, it is much easier now that the strong winds have died. She even has the confidence to pass a moored boat. I have to grab back the controls when I spot a moorhen emerging from the overgrown bank with two chicks. I know it is a sight that Vera will need to be fully focused on. Again, sorry, no time to grab a photo
Despite our very leisurely pace, we catch up the boat in front of us at the entrance to the second tunnel. This is much shorter than the first and we are soon through. The canal here is cut into the side of the hill, with views over the Dee valley. We catch glimpses of the upcoming Pontcysyllte aqueduct through the trees
And then what is probably one of the highlights of the journey, we float across the world heritage monument, high above the trees and river below
There is a sharp left turn at the far side of the aqueduct, and we are delayed by a cruise narrowboat turning round to reverse into its mooring. The canal is now very narrow, shallow, and with a strong current against us.
We travel very very slowly, but that doesn't matter as the scenery is so beautiful. We again manage to catch up our leading boat, which despite a lot of wash from the propeller is struggling to make much progress
Vera is on the phone to Emrhys, who lives locally and we are planning to meet tomorrow. Describing our current location he tells us that we must be near The Sun At Trevor and recommends a visit. There are mooring rings, so we pull up and go for a quick pint in the sunny terraced beer garden
It's a delightful location. High on the hillside, overlooking the canal and surrounding country. The interior of the pub looks equally enticing. If all the moorings at Llangollen are full then we can turn around and stop here for the night
The final approaches to Llangollen are most charming
The canal narrows even further in three sections, and Vera walks ahead to check that our passage is clear. We do find one boat that is travelling through without bothering to send anyone ahead…..
The end of the canal finally arrives and we moor up at a pontoon in the large and mostly empty basin
We plan to eat in The Corn Mill, overlooking the river. It is packed. We have a pint on the terrace in the warmth of the sun
Kayakers are coming down the river, it's a great sight
In the end we eat in the Deeside Bistro
Followed by a last pint in another Sun Inn
and return to our boat in the fading evening light
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